July 29th, 2014

Summer Risotto with sweet corn and purple hull peas: a cook’s musings, while stirring

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As a first time author of a cookbook, having just passed a milestone birthday, I have found myself in a reflective mood. I’ve been thinking about my culinary evolution, how I got here today, how I’ve grown up and grown in the world of food. It had a shaky beginning: a girl, born in New York, who didn’t care for most foods at all.

Moving to The South made a big impact. It took time, but I came to embrace its culinary ways. There’s a real focus on vegetables that we never experienced up North.

The climate supports a greater variety, that alone surprised me. I had never seen or tasted okra, crookneck squash, pole beans, yellow wax beans, collards, turnip and mustard greens, October beans, or purple hull peas.

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Have you heard of purple hull peas? These are tender pulses belonging to the family of Cowpeas, Vigna unguiculata, whose relatives include black-eyed peas, crowders, lady peas, and field peas. High in protein (24%) and easy to grow: they actually thrive in poor soil, and hot, dry conditions.

Their history in the South has dark roots in slave trade. Their seeds were brought on ships, along with enslaved West Africans to the Caribbean and eastern Atlantic seaboard. Rejected by the Europeans as poor man’s fodder, fit only for cattle, they acquired the name “cowpeas.” Little did the Landed Gentry realize all the good they were rejecting.

Make no mistake, the lowly legume has far-reaching benefits for man, animals, and plantlife. Easy to grow and prepare, the peas are delicious. They are high in amino acids, lysine and tryptophan. According to Cooking Light’s notes on healthy living, they are among the foods that will help insure better sleep. (Ahhhhh.)

And, used in crop rotation, cowpeas infuse nitrogen in vast quantities into the soil. That’s important, as corn, for instance, consumes nitrogen greedily. (NOTE: read Dan Barber’s book, The Third Plate–which goes beyond “farm-to-table” detailing an integrated model for vegetable, grain, and livestock production that is truly sustainable.)

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As a picky child, I did enjoy corn on the cob–what self-respecting kid doesn’t? Once you got through the task of shucking (and avoiding any green worms!) the prospect of eating it was as fast as a plunge in the kettle of boiling, lightly salted water.

There’s nothing as blissful as sitting on a back porch stoop, chomping on an ear in the summer, hands and face sloppy with kernels, spurted “corn milk” and butter .

But until I came to Nashville, I had never eaten fresh fried corn–cut from the cob, scraped and skillet-simmered in butter and water. More a technique than a recipe–this is not “creamed corn.” No cream, milk, or flour.

I learned about the pure pleasure of this dish at my first restaurant job in the late ’70’s at a Southern style “Meat-and-Three” called “Second Generation” run by Anna Marie Arnold. Anna grew up cooking with her mother, first generation founder of The White Cottage, a tiny yet legendary eatery that vanished–closed and bulldozed in the ’90’s, when a city bridge had to be widened.

Silver Queen was the favored corn of the day–a small kerneled white corn that had candied sweetness.

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Peas–Corn–Rice

A delectable summer combination.

One of the shifts in my “food evolution” is using local ingredients in classic recipes. That practice makes good sense, but I didn’t awaken to that sensibility until more recent years. Nonetheless, a creamy risotto lends itself readily to accepting these Southern staples in the stir:

Purple hull peas, cooked in onion, garlic and red pepper
Sweet Corn, cut and scraped from the cob
Short-grain Rice, cooked in tomato-vegetable broth

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The tomato-vegetable broth is key too. Certain ripe tomatoes have high water content. When you cook summer tomatoes to make sauce, or chop them to make salsa, if you strain the pulp, you’ll have a lot of remaining juice, or “tomato water.” Use it, in combination with vegetable broth (made with trimmings of carrots, celery, onions, garlic)

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Stir—stir—stir. It can be a meditative process. You might find yourself reflecting on your own life in food!

As the rice becomes plump and savory, releasing its starch into the broth, a seductive creaminess results. Fold in the corn and its scrapings, and finally the purple hull peas, along with the “pot likker” in which they were cooked.

Garnish with fresh thyme, if you like, or a few curls of pecorino romano.
But it is not necessary–the risotto is rich with flavor, and wonderful texture. Enjoy it with spoon, to capture every luscious bite.

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SUMMER RISOTTO WITH SWEET CORN AND PURPLE HULL PEAS
3-4 ears fresh corn
1 pound purple hull peas (weight is unshelled)
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 cloves garlic, slivered, divided
2 medium onions, chopped, divided
1 chili pepper of choice, split in half (cayenne, serrano, jalapeno)
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
2 tablespoons butter (may use oil to make this vegan)
1 1/2 cups short grain rice, like Arborio or Carolina Gold
8 cups tomato-vegetable broth
salt and black pepper to taste

Cut the corn from the cobs, scraping the cobs for extra “corn milk,” into a bowl and set aside.

Shell the purple hull peas, rinse, drain, and place into a bowl. Set aside.

Place olive oil into a 2 quart sized saucepan on medium heat. Add 2 cloves slivered garlic and 1/2 onion, diced, into the saucepan to saute for 2 minutes. Add chili pepper, purple hull peas and enough water to cover the peas by 2 inches. Season with a little salt and black pepper. Increase the heat to bring it to a boil. Simmer for 15 minutes, until peas are tender, yet still firm. Let the peas cool.

Place tomato-vegetable broth into a saucepan and warm.

In a large heavy duty pot, (such as an enameled cast iron Le Creuset) melt the butter over medium heat. Add remaining diced onion and minced garlic. Saute for a minute, then add the rice. Stir until the grains are well coated.
Begin adding the broth, a cupful at a time, stirring the rice, watching it plump up from the savory liquid, monitoring its creaminess from the released starch.

This process will take 30 minutes: stirring, pouring in more cups of broth, stirring, stirring, but I do not constantly hover over the pot. I’ll turn my attention to making salad, slicing tomatoes, visiting with my friends…

At the 20 minute mark, fold in the corn. Stir stir stir.
At the 25 minute mark, fold in the cooked purple hull peas. Stir Stir Stir.
At 30 minutes, turn off the heat. Taste for seasonings. Serve

Serves 8

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Posted in Casseroles, Gluten Free, Recipes, Rice/Other Grains/Legumes, Soups/Stews, Vegetables, Vegetarian Dishes

16 Responses to “Summer Risotto with sweet corn and purple hull peas: a cook’s musings, while stirring”
  1. Joyti Says:

    We have purple hull beans in California :) I think they’re lovely. And the summer risotto looks and sounds delicious!

    Oh, happy belated milestone birthday :)

  2. OldSouth Says:

    Ahhh, the purple-hull pea!! Nothing like them, especially when shelled and cooked the same day.

    Thanks for sharing this recipe!

    OS

  3. ernestine Says:

    Oh my
    have never cooked this way.
    Corn scraped off the cob
    my family loves
    and when they visit I prepare
    if in season :)
    Thank you again for your comment
    to this one and a new recipe.

  4. Kitchen Belleicious Says:

    i have had corn on my mind this summer too. Just made a batch of corn chowder last week but much lighter than one I would make in the winter time. We came home from the 4th with bags and bags of fresh sweet corn from the farm. Its like eating candy they are so sweet. I would love to use them in your risotto recipe. This looks amazing and so delicious

  5. goodfoodmatters Says:

    thanks, Joyti. it’s been quite the milestone! glad that you know about these wonderful little peas.

  6. Teresa Blackburn Says:

    Fabulous recipe Nance. I shelled a bunch of purple hulls last night and plan to freeze the for the winter. The shelling is almost my favorite part..very quiet, slow time to ruminate. I used to shell purple hulls, crowders and peas with my Grandmother. Nice memories. Thanks for sharing your stories as well.

  7. Barbara Says:

    Very southern, Nancy! Love dishes like this. I was fortunate as a child as my mother was an adventurous cook and I can’t think of much she didn’t try…right down to chicken feet! We had lots of unusual veggies too. I felt for my poor older sister as she was a very picky eater and mealtimes were not fun for her. Me? I cleaned my plate. Still do, which is why I’m dieting all the time! My children benefitted as I served them all the same things I ate as a child. They text me photos of those old dishes as they make them for their kids.

  8. fluffy Says:

    amazing, creamy-dreamy food

  9. Adri Says:

    Well, what a wonderful melding of cultures! This risotto looks wonderful, and it is positively packed with nutrition. Brava!

  10. goodfoodmatters Says:

    Old South–I agree. The peas taste so fresh, and cook up so quickly.

    Barbara–it’s so great that your kids are carrying on your food traditions to theirs.

    Adri–Thank you. Your beautiful zucchini-ricotta crostata has been on my list to make for some time. I have had much success this summer growing cocozelle heirloom zucchinis, which would be fantastic in your dish.

  11. Juliana Says:

    I love corn and everything that has corn in it…this risotto looks delicious, creamy and packed with flavor…beautifully done Nancy…I yet have to try this purple hull peas.
    Hope you are having a fabulous week :D

  12. Tammy Says:

    so pretty! Love a comforting dish like this. We have something very similar to purple hull beans but not during the summer. I think there are plenty of substitutes.

  13. Gerlinde Says:

    My husband loves risotto but I never cooked with purple hulled beans . I will look for them at the market when I return from Germany.

  14. Denise | Chez Danisse Says:

    Wonderful! Now that Joyti has informed me that we have purple hull peas in CA, I’ll have to track some down.

  15. Beth Says:

    Happy milestone birthday! This looks delicious.

  16. Karen (Back Road Journal) Says:

    I’m familiar with purple hull peas from growing up in Texas. Adding them along with corn to your risotto is a great idea for a summer meal.



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