May 12th, 2014

Saltimbocca, sort of

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We all know the trouble with the mind and memory. It isn’t always reliable. Images called up from the past can be hazy. Concepts and techniques once learned can be hard to access. Sometimes, the mind makes up things up. Or, two or three stories will meld into one.

That last memory misfire is what happened when I was trying to figure out what to make mom for her Mother’s Day lunch.

No doubt the pot of blooming sage on my front stoop was the source of inspiration, a recipe came to mind that I hadn’t made in years: Saltimbocca. Italian for “Jump into the mouth,” the traditional Roman roll of prosciutto, fresh sage and pounded veal is so quick and delicious, it can leap from skillet to mouth to satisfy hunger pronto.

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Instead of preparing it with veal, I decided to make the dish with chicken breast–already a veer, albeit an acceptable one, from tradition. Early Sunday morning, I went to the market to get my ingredients. And that’s where things went further off course. There wasn’t any prosciutto, so I chose Black Forest ham. I thought I needed fontina, also not to be found–pickin’s are slim after a busy Saturday at the grocer–so I substituted muenster. I also bought cream, and hurried home.

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Bill observed as I pounded the chicken breasts, arranged the slices of ham, cheese, and pretty sage, and rolled up the fillets and said, “Looks like you’re making Chicken Cordon Bleu.”

This was a remarkable statement, coming from a man who 1) doesn’t cook 2) hasn’t touched fish, meat, or fowl for over 20 years because it was True.

I realized I had fused another recipe, also unmade for years, into this one.

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Today’s recipe is that faulty memory merge of two classic Old World dishes, Saltimbocca and Chicken Cordon Bleu. Maybe I should call it a happy marriage, as the result was simply delicious.

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You see, true Saltimbocca has no cheese in its filling, no cream in its sauce. Roman cooks argue on the point of dredging in flour.

Cordon bleu, (which means “blue ribbon’) gained widespread popularity Stateside in the ’60s. It is anchored in Swiss, not French, cuisine. Cheese (often Gruyere) is paired with ham, rolled inside the chicken, which is dipped in egg, dusted in fine breadcrumbs, and deep-fried. Sage has no place in this dish. A cream-based sauce is often napped over the crunchy roulades.

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But here’s what I like about my fusion: A melty white cheese helps to keep the chicken breast moist, and gives a cushion for the sage and ham. The seasoned flour is a touch more assertive–enhanced beyond the usual S&P, with paprika and granulated garlic. The dredging not only helps hold the roulade together (although a toothpick does the trick, too!) it adds browned bits to the skillet–which, in turn, boost the flavor of the sauce. I will also note that I am not alone in this recipe fusion—check out this appealing array of stuffed chicken breast recipes at Cooking Light.

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You can see how sumptuous the juices look, deglazed in the pan with dry white wine. The small amount of flour dusted on the chicken contributes a bit to the thickening of the sauce—although the reduction of wine and small pour of cream do most of the work. More fresh chopped sage—ah, meraviglioso, merveilleux, wunderbar…

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Yes, you will be happy to have this jump into your mouth.

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BLUE RIBBON CHICKEN SALTIMBOCCA
1 1/4 pounds boneless chicken breast
4 slices prosciutto or thinly sliced deli ham
4 slices fontina, or muenster
8-12 fresh sage leaves

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/4 teaspoon paprika

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter

Slice the chicken breast into thin (1/4″) scallops. Place each piece between a stretch of plastic wrap and pound to flatten and tenderize.

Arrange a slice of cheese, ham, and sage leaves on top of each chicken cutlet. Roll, and secure with a toothpick if you like.

In a small bowl, mix the flour with the seasonings: salt, black pepper, granulated garlic, paprika.

Dredge the roulades in the seasoned flour, dusting off the excess.
Place a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter. Heat and swirl together.
Place the chicken roulades in to brown, taking care not to crowd the pieces. Brown the chicken for 3 minutes and turn.
Continue browning for another 3-4 minutes. Remove the fully browned pieces and place them into a baking dish. Cover and keep warm.

Return the skillet to the burner, still set on medium, and make the sauce: (recipe follows)
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WHITE WINE CREAM SAUCE
1 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup heavy cream
6 sage leaves, chopped
salt and black pepper to taste

Pour one cup of dry white wine into the skillet and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Cook and reduce the wine as you continue to deglaze the pan. When the wine is reduced by half (about 5-6 minutes) stir in the heavy cream. Add the chopped sage leaves. Taste for salt and black pepper; adjust as needed.

Pour the sauce over the roulades.

Serves 4.

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Posted in Meats/Poultry, Recipes, Sauces

20 Responses to “Saltimbocca, sort of”
  1. ernestine Says:

    This looks so good
    and something I could prepare a
    small amount
    just me :) thank you..

  2. K-Run Says:

    Wow that looks amazingly delicous! I will have to fix this very soon! Thanks for yet another scrumptious meal.

  3. heather Says:

    Wow, looks amazing and sounds delicious, perfect for company!

  4. Kitchen Belleicious Says:

    i want to make more dishes like this- stuffing chicken creates such a flavorful meal but I just detest pounding chicken. i get all scared of the bacteria and stuff and i just have this fear with it:) LOL! I do it but its not my favorite thing in the world. Now if I could buy pre-pounded chicken breasts then I am all game! Either way this dish is fantastic and I WILL try it no matter what!

  5. goodfoodmatters Says:

    Hey Jess–I’ve never been crazy about pounding chicken either–but it is easier (and cleaner) when you place the chicken between the plastic wrap. I have seen thinly sliced cutlets at the market too!

  6. Adri Says:

    Oh, call it what you please! This looks so good. Aren’t those old recipes just the best? It’s funny but often I make something I learned MANY years ago, thinking I am adhering strictly to the recipe, only to discover that I have veered off course. No matter though, it is always satisfying and delicious. This looks so tempting. Brava!

  7. fluffy Says:

    Tender and delicious! love the blooming sage.

  8. Julie Says:

    What a lucky mom you have (for so many reasons! ;-) YUM

  9. claudia young Says:

    always so wonderful to see your food and read your posts. i’m sure this was delicious and your mom loved it!

  10. goodfoodmatters Says:

    Adri–it’s a good thing, at times, to veer off course and see where that faulty memory takes you.

    Julie–you are so kind!

    claudia—many many thanks for the read.

  11. Michele | Cooking At Home Says:

    Nancy, what a brilliant fusion of flavors you created. Your memory failure produced a gorgeous dish.

  12. Kath Says:

    I like the marriage very much! It sounds delicious. I have pre-ordered the book. It tells me to expect it sometime in June. I am very excited.

  13. goodfoodmatters Says:

    Thanks, Michele! Mom and I were both very happy with the outcome.

    Hi Kath–thank you so much for pre-ordering. I am so excited too—and I don’t think that I told you that you are in the book? Page 144, I think. I included your tip for toasting pumpkin seeds (with credit to you, of course!)

  14. Barbara Says:

    That’s blue ribbon, all right. Sometimes our trips to the farmers market or grocers alters what we had planned. I’d say this was a big plus this time as I love everything about this recipe!

  15. Karen (Back Road Journal) Says:

    Your story behind how the recipe came about gave me a real chuckle. A blue ribbon saltimbocca is a great name for a delicious sounding dish. :)

  16. Denise | Chez Danisse Says:

    Memory sure can be tricky… Whatever you call this dish, it looks delicious.

  17. Beth Says:

    Sometimes, culinary accidents are the best! I’d love to try this, whatever it’s called. The sage won me over!

  18. Kath Says:

    Oh my goodness, I am so very proud! Now I am even more excited about reading it.

  19. Teresa, foodonfifth Says:

    How did I miss this delicious looking recipe? I must have been lost in photo shoot land again! Anyhow this looks just divine and very special for a nice dinner. So pretty when cut open.

  20. elizabethportman Says:

    A version of this dish is saltimbocca alla Romana which consists of veal, prosciutto and sage, rolled-up and cooked in dry white wine and butter.



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