Holiday Sides: tweaking tradition
Acorn Squash Rings stuffed with Sorghum Apples and Pecans
Yukon Gold-Sweet Potato Gratin
There’s a thin line to walk at family holiday gatherings, where Traditions and The New intersect. Expectations for the Usual vie for their place at the Thanksgiving table, as does the Desire for Something Different. If you are like me, you would never dream of replacing the roast turkey. Oh, I’ve refined my recipe over the years. And I’ve completely veered away from how I had it prepared, growing up.
Back in the day, my dad was in charge of cooking the turkey. He would cover the entire bird with bacon strips, which would essentially baste it as it roasted. When done, the bacon was practically annealed onto the golden brown skin. He’d cook it early in the day, let it rest before carving, and saunter off to the den to watch a football game.
Crazed with hunger, we kids would sneak into the kitchen, and greedily pick off the bacon strips, which couldn’t help but tear things up. With a piece of bacon came a piece of skin, oops, and then a hunk of meat. By the time the poor turkey reached the table, it was a rather ravaged looking carcass.
Much as we all loved the bacon, no one missed the “bacon-turkey” when I took over the helm of holiday hosting. My replacement, a garlic-sage-butter baste (slathered under the turkey skin) is much-loved, and arrives like a showpiece on the table.
But, no turkey? Unthinkable! There would upheaval, shouts of betrayal, dejection.
However, times change; diets and tastes change.
When you want to introduce something really new, that’s where the side dishes come in.
When our Third Thursday Community Potluck meets in November, it is a serendipitous convenience that it is held exactly one week before Thanksgiving. (always the fourth Thursday!) Our guests come bearing a bounty of intriguing dishes, ideal for holiday serving. I’m sharing two favorites with you today, for your consideration. Both are vegetarian and gluten-free, one is suitable for vegans. Bearing in mind shifting dietary needs, these are sure to please everyone.
The first dish combines Yukon Gold potatoes and sweet potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced, and layered in a gratin. I love the random look of the overlapping orange and yellow discs. And, grating fresh nutmeg over each layer imparts a subtle spicy note.
The liquid in which these potatoes cook is half-and-half infused with shallots, chives, and flat leaf parsley. Shredded Gruyere cheese enrichens the dish, beautifully melting throughout the layers. If you can locate Comte, an artisanal French cheese that is possibly better than Gruyere, I recommend it.
The layers meld as they bake, but the naturally (and barely) sweet tastes of both potatoes shine through.
YUKON GOLD-SWEET POTATO-GRATIN
4-5 tablespoons butter, softened
2 shallots, diced
2 cups half-and-half
2 heaping tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh chives, finely chopped
1 teaspoons sea salt
½ teaspoon white pepper
whole nutmeg—for finely grating
1 ½ lbs. Yukon Gold potatoes, cleaned
1 ½ lbs. sweet potatoes, cleaned
1 ½ cups Gruyere cheese, shredded
¼ cup grated Parmegianno-Regianno
13”x9” deep baking dish
Using one tablespoon of the butter, coat the baking dish.
In a saucepan on medium heat, sauté the shallots in three tablespoons butter until translucent. Add the half-and-half, parsley, chives, salt, and white pepper. Stir well until warmed. Remove from heat.
Peel Yukon gold and sweet potatoes. Slice very thin (1/8’) and layer the bottom of the baking dish in overlapping circles. It’s fine to layer them randomly—a few slices of one potatoes, followed by the other. Grate some fresh nutmeg over the slices.
Stir and cover with a thin layer of seasoned half-and half. Sprinkle with ½ cup Gruyere. Repeat with another layer of sliced potatoes, arranged in similar fashion. Follow with grated nutmeg. Cover again with more liquid, followed by Gruyere. Press down with the back of a wooden spoon to make sure the liquid seeping through all the overlapping slices.
Finish with final of sliced potatoes, half-and-half, remaining cheeses. Dot the top with remaining butter.
Cover with aluminum foil and baking in a preheated 375 degree oven for 30 minutes.
Uncover and finish baking for another 15-20 minutes, until casserole is browned, and potatoes feel tender when pierced.
Serves 10-12
The acorn squash rings make a pretty presentation, and couldn’t be simpler to make. Here in the South, we love sorghum, which adds a mineral sweetness to the apple stuffing. But other syrups would work just as readily. Maple syrup would be a terrific choice.
Apples and winter squashes always pair well. Choose a firm, tart apple, like Granny Smith or Jonathan or Ginger Gold. Pecan pieces and diced shallots are folded with apples, the pecans become toasted in the bake.
Wishing you all a very Happy Thanksgiving.
If you are traveling, travel safely. Enjoy one another’s company, and dine well.
We are headed for DC to be with my daughter and son-in-law, and I plan to stay until my grandbaby is born! Stay tuned. We are full of excitement and gratitude.
ACORN SQUASH RINGS STUFFED WITH SORGHUM APPLES AND PECANS (vegan)
2 large acorn squashes
2 large baking apples, such as Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Gingergold
2/3 cup chopped shallots
2/3 cup pecan pieces
¼ cup sorghum
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
olive oil—for brushing squash rings
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Slice squashes into rings, almost an inch in thickness. Depending on the size of the squash, you can get 5-6 rings from each one. Scoop out the seeds, and lay the rings on a parchment lined baking sheet. Brush the rings with olive oil.
Wash, core and dice apples into ½” chunks. Place into a bowl. Add shallots, pecan pieces, sorghum, salt and black pepper. Toss, so that all the pieces are coated with the sorghum.
Mound sorghum apple mixture into the center of each ring.
Bake for 25 minutes.
Makes 10-12 rings
Posted in Gluten Free, Recipes, Vegetables, Vegetarian Dishes
Comment on This Post:
November 14th, 2012 at 10:01 am
You had me at the colorful potato gratin… and then I saw the squash!!!! Both are going on the list
November 14th, 2012 at 6:33 pm
What an awesome recipe! I love the different textures – I’m making this for Christmas :D
November 14th, 2012 at 9:22 pm
I love that you’re “tweaking” tradition. These side dishes are definitely worth their gold on the holiday table!
November 15th, 2012 at 3:32 am
Happy holidays and I am looking forward to news of the baby. x
November 15th, 2012 at 4:14 am
I will be expecting to taste these fall delectables tonight at Third Thursday! Sides have always been what I love about Thanksgiving dinner. Turkey lovers can have the turkey, I’ll take the sides any day. Yum.
November 15th, 2012 at 5:08 am
Nancy, thank you so much for a new idea for my
Thanksgiving dinner. Making the squash rings.
Safe travel wishes go out to you and when you see that new grandbaby – it is the best feeling in the world.
November 15th, 2012 at 5:40 am
I agree with Teresa–the sides have it! And these sides would be a wonderful addition to any table. Have a safe trip to D.C.,enjoy the holiday and the new arrival.
November 15th, 2012 at 6:18 am
Yes, The Sides Rule!
Thank you all for the kind wishes;
Hopefully my next post will have Grandbaby News!
Ernestine–I just realized I didn’t send you the chess tart recipe–I’ll do it today! Sorry!
November 15th, 2012 at 11:39 am
It is a delicate balance, merging the old with the new. Your gratin might have to be part of my new this year.
But most importantly, a grandbaby right around the corner. You must be overwhelmed with anticipation. Enjoy!
November 15th, 2012 at 11:45 am
thank you, Denise! the gratin really is quite good–I hope you’ll enjoy it, if you give it a try.
November 15th, 2012 at 12:13 pm
You know, we haven’t had a turkey for Thanksgiving in something like ten years! The tradition is well and thoroughly tweaked at our house. :) Those acorn squash rings look amazing–perfect for our 3rd year running of hosting vegan Thanksgiving!
November 15th, 2012 at 3:04 pm
I like the sound of the gratin very very much and it fits perfectly into the orange hued, nutmeg dusted phase I (we) are all having. More importantly the day is getting closer, lucky M having her mum near, I have such fond memories of those first days with Luca and my Mum,
happy Thanksgiving to you.
November 15th, 2012 at 3:19 pm
Congrats on your growing family Nancy! Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
November 15th, 2012 at 7:32 pm
Both look yummy! These will definitely be going into my recipe collection.
November 15th, 2012 at 9:40 pm
Both of your sides look wonderful! What a great way to celebrate the holidays with a twist. And congratulations on the soon-to-be new addition to your family.
November 16th, 2012 at 6:18 am
Sides are the stars, aren’t they? Love the look of both dishes and still planning our Thanksgiving meal.
November 16th, 2012 at 6:22 am
Oh you’re expecting a grandbaby!! How exciting this must be for you, dear Nancy.
Your dishes look, as always, amazing. I love gratins and side dishes in general. Us Greeks always have huge spreads on holiday tables with small plates of this and that. I’m definitely bookmarking your recipes! Thank you!
November 17th, 2012 at 5:04 am
I’ll certainly have a side of your first dish and a few notes to take towards the next time I prepare my acorn squash. Besides the scrumptious ingredients…the presention possibilities just lit the light bulb a little further. Nancy, this one will be on my table very soon ;o)
Have a lovely Thankgiving.
Ciao for now,
Claudia
November 18th, 2012 at 12:48 pm
Making your potato gratin now…kitchen smells fantastic!
November 18th, 2012 at 1:12 pm
Eileen–good for you holding the vegan Thanksgiving–there are so many possibilities, to never miss the bird.
rach–I hope that I’ll be good help to Madeleine and baby. if it works out, our plan is for me to be her coach in labor and delivery. exciting, yes, and a little surreal. it will all be real soon. x n
Sue-I hope you’ll get the chance to make these recipes.
thank you, Beth and Magda! We are looking forward to meeting this new family member. very soon.
Hey there wobblinggoblins—thanks for the heads up. I bet that gratin smells good.hope you enjoy it!
November 19th, 2012 at 7:22 am
i am wishing I was having thanksgiving with you- for both the company and that amazing stuffed acorn dish:) Have a great week and thanksgiving!
November 19th, 2012 at 12:43 pm
That gratin really speaks to us. Love the idea of having both Yukon Gold and sweet potatoes instead of the usual one or the other. Yum yum yummy!
November 20th, 2012 at 8:12 pm
Very creative Nancy…love both recipes and sure like the twist that you have here…perfect for Thanksgiving dinner.
Have a happy Thanksgiving :)
November 21st, 2012 at 2:15 pm
How amazing the holidays must be at your house! This one will be extra special when the family’s special bundle of joy will be delivered. :) Have a great Thanksgiving!
November 24th, 2012 at 11:14 am
You are right about just how much you can change a traditional meal. I have made the gratin of sweet and regular potatoes but I think your recipe is better than the one I found in a magazine several years ago.
November 30th, 2012 at 7:04 pm
What amazing sides! Although Thanksgiving is over, I would totally make these any night!
December 5th, 2012 at 9:51 am
Some serious drooling over here even thought thaksgiving is gone!!!